Apologies for the sparse blog updates. The first several
weeks here are all very new and high-energy. It feels like a vacation, but then
it becomes your life. And anyone who’s lived a life knows that the commitment
to keep up a journal/blog is difficult! You’re too busy doing things to write about
them. I have been journaling some, too, but since this the public image of my
thoughts and feelings, some editing is in order.
A few weeks ago we took a train up to Nikko, which is a
small city in the mountains. There are some large famous shrines there, one of
which has the original “see no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil” monkey
carvings. I had no idea they even came from one original place, so that was
neat to see. The hotel we stayed at served us a five course American-style
meal. Several forks and all that. We ate an obscene amount of dinner rolls. The
staff started off refilling the baskets on the table, but we’d each snatch two
rolls out of it as soon as they did, so they started serving it right onto our
bread plates. I think they got a kick out of it. They were probably taking bets
back in the kitchen on how much bread the gaijins
(foreigners) would eat.
On the train up to Nikko, I stood in the car with the
snack bar for a while because it had a great big window for taking photos out
of. At one point, we went racing by a small road crossing. Standing there,
waiting for the train to pass, were (I’m assuming) a father and daughter. The
girl was probably about five years old. She was wearing a dark sweater with
bold white lettering. I wish there were a word for what I felt upon seeing her.
Everything in that moment seemed poignant and
serendipitous. That scene: the sweet train attendants behind me, the bright
window, the green farms and small villages racing by, all of Japan around me,
the past months in my memory, and now this girl and her father, in my vision
for seconds. The scene is branded brightly into my brain. And what makes it
even more piquant is that that little
girl has no idea I exist. She knows there are seven billion people in the world,
just like I do, but in seeing her, I didn’t just see a person. I saw someone. I will remember that little
girl long after she is done being a little girl. I don’t know her name, I don’t
know what she was doing there or where she was going. She could become a famous
Japanese actress one day, and I will see her in a movie, and I will have no
idea. I wish there were a word for that feeling. I've had it often here.
A few days ago I had my last day of working at the Japanese
preschool for an internship. I really didn’t think I’d make it through seven
sessions of playing with kids I can’t even speak to. Now I feel like hanging
out with American kids would be absolute cake. I can talk to them! They can
talk to me! I can understand them! My favorite thing to do with the Japanese
preschoolers is color with them. They all scramble to have me draw them cats
and dogs and bunnies and flowers and write their names in bubble hiragana
letters. They crawl in your lap and want to touch your eyelashes. I also got
paid $60, in addition to the $80 I was paid a few weeks ago. Yay for cash
money.
There is one girl at the preschool who is probably the
cutest little girl I’ve ever seen. She has captivating eyes. I’d follow those
eyes to the ends of the earth. When we first started working there, she was
distant and shy, but now she plays with the other kids. It’s startling to see
her progress because it makes me realize how long we’ve been here. I don’t even
know her name either. I almost teared up today when I realized I’ll never see
her again.
One time when I went there, I was drawing pictures of
Hello Kitty for a couple girls. I doodled a star, a moon, and a sun, and one of
the girls said she wanted those on her picture of Hello Kitty. I oblige, and
then her friend wants some, too, naturally. But when she pointed at them, she
used her pencil and drew a line across the doodles. As soon as it happened I
thought, “uh oh,” and I was right. The first girl’s face crumpled and she
started wailing. I quickly found an eraser and soon there was no trace of the
faint line, but of course, that didn’t matter. Soon the girl’s friend began
crying, too, saying “gomennn, gomennnn”
[I’m sorry, I’m sorry]. My fellow workers/study abroad mates started looking at
me, and, trying not to laugh, I said, “It wasn’t me.” One of the teachers came
by a minute later and started to sort it out. In general, it seems to me that
Japanese kids cry more than American ones…but then again, I haven’t been around
American kids a lot.
This past weekend I was lucky enough to travel to Okinawa for a weekend (Thanks, Mom and Dad!!!!) with Ian. I've never had a trip like it. First of all, I packed the morning of, which wasn't as stressful as I thought it would be, since it was only a few days after all, and we were traveling with just our backpacks. Though they can quickly get heavy, it gives you a weird rush of freedom to have everything you need (for a few days at least) on your back. Material possessions are nice, but they can easily tie you down. To make our flight on time, we had to run out of our last class of the day (at 12:20--our flight left at 2:45), run through our train stations, and take the express Skyliner train (which only takes 36 minutes!) to Narita airport. We got to the gate with time to spare (yay, checking in online!) but I much prefer getting to the airport obscenely early! I get that from my dad, I know.
Airport security is definitely different for domestic Japanese flights. To enter the airport itself we simply showed our passport to an employee. "Is that a passport? Yup. That's a passport, go ahead." And when going through actual security, you don't even have to take off your shoes! They even let me keep my water bottle. The man asked "Can I check your water bottle?" and then used a spectrometer (that's what Ian said it was at least) to check it for chemicals. Can you imagine the TSA politely asking you if they could check your bag? Ha!
Our flight went smoothly, as did our directions from our hostel to take the monorail from the airport, but when we got off at the designated monorail station, we found ourselves at a five way intersection with no street signs. After fruitlessly wandering, we decided to get dinner. We picked a random restaurant, and it ended up being delicious. For 200-500 yen ($2-5) you got two little kebabs of meat or quail eggs or other fun things. We got the "chefs platter" of ten kebabs of various mysterious things. It was all delicious, including our bloody marys on the side. We also shared a bottle of awamori--Okinawan sake.
By the time we left to search for our hostel again...let's just say we each didn't mind the cold so much! We soon realized we were not going to find this hostel and got a taxi, which took us in a completely different directions, confirming our suspicions. Like lots of places outside of the U.S., addresses are not helpful at all, so the taxi just took us to the correct street, and we started asking little shops where it was. The third place we stopped in, the man said, "This is it."
He gave us a little tour. This place is so hard to describe in words. I will try to get pictures on Facebook as soon as possible. The bottom floor used to be a restaurant but now it's closed, plus they're remodeling, plus it's off-season, so there was stuff in piles everywhere: appliances, a drum set, shelving, extension cords, old CD players, along with cozy corners of chairs and tables and little lofts you could sit up in as well. By the kitchen there was self-serve breakfast of rice, miso soup, nori (seaweed, which I passed on), and egg for 200 yen. (I love rice with raw egg now!) On the second floor was the men's shared room, a few private rooms, and the tatami (woven mats) shared area that had a couple computers (they also had fast, free wifi), guitars to play, manga to read, some movies, and a nice TV. On the third floor was the women's shared room, and a few more private rooms, including ours. Our room had a little couch, a desk, and very comfortable bunk beds! That first night we went wandering around with a couple of other guys in the hostel who were both visiting from Taiwan--though one was from Slovakia and one was from Germany!
The next day was our beach day. After navigating various forms of transportation, we ended up at a beach slightly south of Naha, the city of Okinawa. There was almost no one else on the beach (off season), plus we later discovered the reason a man came down to tell us we couldn't swim was because it was jellyfish season! We went in the water a little anyway--oops! It was mostly great to be by the ocean, look for shells and coral, and just enjoy the peace that comes from being by the water. Planes often flew overhead, really low, heading into Naha airport. After several hours, we had an early dinner at a restaurant on the beach. They had chandeliers, but were playing American rap music, and Ian and I both got hamburgers. What a unique moment that was.
That night we met up with some CSB/SJU alums who were living there teaching English, and they took us out to dinner and the bars. We went to a really fun bar where you could request songs, and they played the music videos on big screens and people danced. We had a blast. The next day we went to Shuri Castle, an old castle from when Okinawa was its own kingdom. Ian and I each ended up buying shisa.
Traditionally, they are two statues placed on either side of an entrance. The statue with an open mouth scares away bad spirits, and the statue with a closed mouth keeps good spirits in. I believe they originated in Okinawa, or at least Okinawa is famous for them, so they were a good souvenir.
On our last day we found a park by the ocean and sat, reading and napping. Okinawa has such a different feel from the rest of Japan. "Island culture," I guess you call it. Things feel slower. The people aren't as high fashion. A lot of the buildings are old, and no one bothers to repaint or repair them. It felt a bit like Hawaii, I thought, or like Mexico, Ian said. Like a place out of the sixties sometimes. But in the end, it really only feels like Okinawa. It's fascinating to discover that each place in the world has its own unique feel--a combination of the buildings, the pace, the people, the food--that you can only grasp by visiting and exploring it. It makes me want to travel to all the places I can.
I've only got 16 days left here. Time flies.